Mexico Backpacking

Mexico is vast and diverse, and it really does have something for everyone: incredible ancient ruins, a colourful cultural heritage, vibrant cities, sun-drenched sandy beaches with azure waters, desert, watersports galore, local festivals….the list goes on.

Mexico is not a super-cheap destination; budget travellers will need around 30 US dollars a day, minimum. Internal travel is generally pretty good value, particularly if you take an overnight bus for longer journeys.  Buses are fairly comfortable – just make sure you take warm clothes as the air conditioning can be fierce! There are no long-distance train services. However, you might want to hire a car, to give you the ultimate flexibility – as long as you’re a confident driver, as driving conditions can be somewhat challenging at times. Mexico is a year-round destination; there is a rainy season from May to October but it’s not all that bad – it usually rains for no more than an hour in the afternoon or evening. December and January are the most popular months and it can be near impossible to find accommodation during peak weeks, especially at beach resorts such as Cancun or Tulum.

Most travellers begin their journey at the capital, Mexico City. This chaotic metropolis is the world’s third largest city. It’s for the main part noisy and dirty, and it can be quite a daunting experience.  Most who arrive just want to get straight out, but it’s worth staying at least one night, if only to soak up the atmosphere or to use it as a jumping off point to visit nearby Teotihuacán, one of the largest and best preserved ancient cities.

If you want a slice of traditional Mexican town life, Oaxaca is a thriving but very pleasant town colourful architecture and a number of markets where you can find just about everything, including stalls selling the local delicacy of ‘chapulines’ which are fried insects, similar to grasshoppers. Other local specialities you must try are the chocolate which is one of the world's finest and mezcal, a highly intoxicating drink made from cactus.

Mexico's Pacific coast is an excellent alternative to the busier, over-touristed Cancun area. There are some quaint fishing villages, such as Zihuatanejo, unspoilt, tropical beaches, including Zipolite and Mazunte and lively surf beaches including the beautiful Puerto Escondido, a backpackers’ favourite. With so many interesting places to hang out, you could easily lose a few weeks travelling up or down this stretch of coast.

San Cristóbal de las Casas is a beautiful town in the mountains and it enjoys a cool climate. It’s a great place to stay for a couple of days and it makes a good base for day trips including one to the nearby jungle of Palenque, one of the most stunning Mayan ruin sites in Mexico.

Divers will want to head across to Isla Mujeres or Cozumel, both on the Yucatan Peninsula, near Cancun. The Caribbean waters are crystal-clear and teeming with marine life.

Mexico is generally an easy place to travel around, but learning a few words of Spanish will definitely make things simpler.

 

 

The Mexican Way!

Thinking of heading South down Mexico way? Just like the movies! Actually, Mexico is a great destination for backpackers. The country is extremely diverse, the people friendly, and most of the services are cheap.

Transportation

One of the fastest, easiest and cheapest ways of getting around the country is by bus. Actually the bus service is very “high tech,” There is a bus heading out to any destination in the country about every 5 minutes. The seats are comfortable, the bus stops every so often for meals, and you travel mainly by night which means you can save on a hotel stay. Traveling by bus is extremely comfortable, except during the Christmas holiday season. If you plan to travel a week or two before Christmas, then you should probably buy your tickets a day or two in advance. Prices vary, but generally you can travel across the country for about $70.

Food

If you’re used to roaming around third world countries, then the best and most diversified food sources are the local markets. Each city, town or village has their own specialty. If in Oaxaca you might want to try the mole and grasshoppers, in Puebla try the Tlacoyos (blue corn tortillas with any topping you want), if you are not that adventurous there are lots of fruit and vegetables, and normal dishes too. Most meals cost about $2 to $3 in the markets.

If you are in villages that are too small to have a market, ask any resident where you can get a bite to eat. They’ll be sure to invite you in for a meal. One of the best meals I have ever eaten was a bowl of fresh beans, goats cheese, hand made tortillas, and fresh ground coffee. My hosts lived in a one room hut and slept in hammocks. Be sure to leave a nice tip!

Accommodations

You can find a hostel in most tourist towns or cities, and these are usually located in the downtown areas, and most restaurants or stores, can tell you where the hostel is. The government offices located right around the town square can also tell you where the local hostel is. In cities where there aren’t hostels there are very inexpensive hotels that run between $15 and $20 a night.

If you happen to be in one of the very small villages then ask at the local store who might have a room for rent. You’ll find that many families have empty rooms off of their houses, or empty houses (family members working in the US).

Where to Go?

Mexico is extremely diverse and there is something to see everywhere. Personally I prefer to travel off the beaten path. There are wide diversity of people, Indian villages, national parks and different climates and environments. So whether you want to got to the semi tropics, head off to the Mayan archaeological sites, or take in the culture, there is variety in every village, and every city. Every city, town and village has its own traditions and its own beliefs.

What to See & Do in Mexico

When you backpack and travel through Mexico there are a few things you need to know about, especially if you want to stay a while and learn as much as you can about the country. The southern part of Mexico, along the Pacific are known for the warm, beautiful beaches, their great surfing, snorkeling and fishing opportunities. The Yucatan area is known for its Mayan ruins and includes the great, ruins of Chichen Itza and Uxmal. Mexico City is known for its urban culture, and its night life. San Miguel de Allende is known for its art, ancient custioms, and its festivities. The problem is that with such a large country, it is definitely going to take a while to travel through it and get to know all of its wonders, and unless you have a lot of money then you will need to find some kind of income.

Getting a Job

It is not that difficult to make a living in Mexico. If you speak English well, and especially if you are a native English speaker then the best place to find work is as an English teacher. Some schools will ask you for a work visa and others wont. Most schools prefer English speakers with no knowledge of Spanish, but will take you anyway, there is such a great need for teachers. Don’t expect to make as much money as you would in the states, but it is enough for expenses in the country. Most schools pay between $5 to $10 an hour and some will offer you a straight salary.

Traveling Safely

Most areas in Mexico are extremely safe, but you need to be very careful in border towns, and in Mexico City. In these areas you need to be on the defensive. Don’t stay out late. Don’t walk alone at night. Stick to very public places. Don’t carry a lot of cash and when you do place it in various different places. Travel by public transportation as much as you can. By public transportation I mean buses, or metro. When you do take a cab, be sure to ask for the price before you get in. If you are female avoid getting into a cab at night. You are much better off taking public transportation, where there are lots of other people.

Stay Healthy

In larger cities drinking tap water is not a good idea and may make you sick. In some areas it is ok, you will need to ask, but generally speaking, every restaurant and every store sells bottled water which is perfectly drinkable. There are basic medicines that you can take to ward off the problem. When you start to feel a little sick visit your local doctors office, their fee is not very high and well worth it. If there is not a doctor nearby visit your local pharmacy. Most pharmacy owners in Mexico have to be doctors, so they will know what to give you, plus it will save you the doctor’s fee.

Remember to wash vegetables and fruit with an iodine solution you can pick up at any of the larger grocery stores. Don’t worry too much about food in local restaurants, they keep it pretty clean.

 

 

Playa Azul

Playa Azul is a place in Mexico which many people know little about. Most people know little if nothing about this area, but would enjoy the tropics and virgin beaches that the area has to offer. Playa azul is the coast line along the state of Michoacan, and right in the middle of this stretch of coast line is the small village of Lazaro Cardenas, where you can spend the night for about $30. There are lots of places in the area that you can pitch a tent or lie your head in the near sand. You might even try sleeping in a hammock as the locals do.

 

You can get there via two routes, either through Michoacan, or through the state of Guerrero (out of Acapulco). Both routes are extremely picturesque in their own way, but both are safe and you can get there by bus through either route.

 

Via Michoacan

To get to Playa Azul from Michoacan you would need to travel to Morelia then Patzcuaro and then Lazaro Cardenas. All of these cities are of interest and beautifull in their own right. The highway is in good shape and you will enjoy the view all the way there. You will get to see forests, semi arid landscapes, and tropical areas all in the space of a few hours.

 

Via Acapulco

If you go through Guerrero then you will need to head to Acapulco and then head toward Zihuatanejo-Ixtapa and then Lazaro Cardenas. By taking this route you will be able to enjoy the tropics and the coast the whole trip.

 

Virgin Beaches

Once you reach Playa Azul you will enjoy this virgin beach where you will only see a few families camped out and around. This is a great destination to enjoy the beach, relax, and eat right out on the beach. There is almost no one to bother you, and the best part is that there are absolutely no beach vendors.

This beach is the perfect place to enjoy the sun, sling a hammock, camp out, fish or just buy fish, a great area to travel, enjoy nature and play for a while.

When you do finally head back, whether deciding to go by car, or by bus, head back through Morelia that way you will be able to enjoy the archaeological wonders this city has to offer, and then you can head over to Patzcuaro’s which is considered to be one of the ten magical towns in Mexico.

 

Bacalar To Chetumal the Hard Way!

One sunny afternoon I was sitting in an outdoor café in Quintana Roo and I heard a group of people talking about an expedition they were going to make from the town of Bacalar to Chetumal, both cities being in Quitana Roo. At first I didn’t find anything interesting about the excursion because Bacalar is only about 20 minutes drive time from Chetumal, but then I realized they were talking about making the trip and enjoying the nature of it all by doing it by kayak, bicycling, snorkeling, swimming and walking. This caught my attention because the plan was to do all of these activities in a 24 hour period, at which time I decided to join the excursion.

 

Bacalar

Our excursion started out in Bacalar, which is located in the south eastern part of the country and in the state of Quintana Roo. Bacalar is best known for the Fort of San Felipe which was used to defend the town against pirates in the colonial era. Another large attraction in Bacalar is the “cenote azul” which is one of the many underground caves filled with fresh clear water, the remains from the ice age.Cenote azul is a favorite, among all cenotes and a great place to swim. The church of San Joaquin is also well worth looking at. This church is of great historical significance. In fact it is said that there are several ghosts that roam the church form people that were killed in the Castas war.

Our Journey

We started our journey out in inflatable kayaks and started from the fort. We rowed for about 2 kilometers, some of us chose to swim part of that two kilometers. We landed in the tropics and started walking. The walk was one of the most interesting I have ever taken, I was able to see first hand what the tropical rain forest was like, and although extremely beautiful, this walk was somewhat difficult. One of the hardest things to deal with is the intense tropical heat.

 

We walked for about 6 kilometers which took up much of the morning. In a small village we came to we decided to pick up and travel to Laguna de Chile Verde by bike, a trek of about 25 kilometers

While on our bike trek we got to see some of the real natural beauty of the area, and some of the wildlife for which the región is known. We went through several small communities like Laguna Guerrero, Punta Lagarto, Tres Rios, Raudales, Laguna Milagros and some I don’t even remember the names, but I do remember that every village was picturesque and unique.

 

For the last part of our trek we picked up our kayaks again and rowed until we got to Rio Hondo. These rapids are quite an experience and a little hard to navigate, as this is the chanel that separates Mexico and Belice. We soon arrived in Chetumal, and most of us will always remember the nature, the sunset and the natural beauty we experienced on this two day trek.

 

Don’t Forget Jalpan!

When traveling through Mexico it is very likely that you hit The city of Queretaro. This city has great historical significance and played a major role both in the conquest of Mexico and in the Mexican revolution, but what you might not know is that if you travel northeast within the state, just a few hours you will hit one of the most beautiful semi tropical areas in central Mexico. Your destination is Jalpan, a small Mexican village in the middle of the Sierra Gorda, approximately five hours away. If you don’t have a car don’t worry too much about it. You can catch a bus from the Queretaro bus station. Its not very expensive, this bus runs about $15, but well worth the expense and you can still enjoy the scenery. Once in Jalpan you can walk just about everywhere, and there are small urban buses that take you out to the local swimming holes.

 

When you start heading north first you will see a semi desertic area, the air gets drier and you will see a lot of cactus, then about an hour into your trip you will start ascending into the mountainous region known as the Sierra Gorda. The Sierra Gorda is a forest that is nationally protected and has over a million acres. You’ll begin to note that the air starts getting cooler and that tall pines and oaks begin to overshadow the cactus and the mesquite. If you are able to stop and look at some of these oaks, you’ll get a closer look at the orchids and bromeliads that grow on their branches.

 

Another hour into the trip you will see several quaint villages and the landscape will start to turn again. It will become lush, green and tropical. Here you can enjoy waterfalls which you can swim in. The farmers of the area sell corn and fruit off the side of the road for travelers to enjoy. This area of Mexico has all of the different climates and ecological regions in one small area. In five hours, you will see the desert, the cool mountainous regions of Mexico, and the semi tropics.

 

Once you get to a small village named Jalpan, you will be able to have a look at the 400 year old Benedictine missions. These missions are very interesting and were built by the same Benedictine monks that built the famous missions in California. As you wander through the missions you will enjoy watching the grazing cows, sheep, burros, the children playing makes a very quaint picture.

 

In Jalpan there is one or two small hotels you can stay at if you wish, or you can head back to the Capital of Queretaro. There are also some great campsites located in the surrounding area. You’ll just have to ask some of the locals how to get there. Should you decide to stay the night you can enjoy swimming in the local swimming holes, or in the falls, later you might choose to head further east where you’ll get a look at the real jungle and all of the wildlife that is there.

Tulum – The Prettiest Desolate Beach You’ll ever Come Across

If you ever wanted to visit paradise then Tulum Mexico is the place you want to go. Tulum is near the ancient beachside ruins of the ancient Mayans. This fantastic place lies about an hour further south than Cancun, and is one of the last untamed stretches of Mexican carribean.

They ancient ruins of Tulum the mayan city may not be the largest ancient ruins, they are sought out by those seeking energy and the power of nature.

What Makes the Area so Special?

The hotel or accommodations are pretty primitive, not much more than a palapa (hut with palm leaf roof), the landscape is natural, pure, primitive and gorgeous. Jungle creatures abound in the area and don’t seem to feer any people in the area.

There is a cenote nearby, which is perfect for snorkeling and getting a good view of underwater life. The cnote is full of different colored fish and other aquatic life.

If you drive about an hour south of Tulum along the Sian ka’an biao reserve you will find a beautiful white beach with a smooth blue green ocean almost as if you were walking through a painting.

Nearby is a little hotel called Zamas, and the restaurant serves fresh caught sea food and you can relax and watch the sunset on the beach. During the day this is a great place to do some snorkeling. You can see all kinds of carribean marine life.

This Caribbean spot is a true delight, especially if you are into quiet, secluded tropical beaches with clear blue green warm waters. This is the perfect place to relax before continuing on your backpacking journey.

Surely if you have been traveling through Mexico for any amount of time you have been to the famous mercado, where you are sure to have seen many interesting things, tried many interesting foods, and even seen some pretty strange things. One of the most common vendors you will come to know is the herbal vendor. I say that he is common, because there is one, two, or more at every market you go to, including the tourist market. This is the stall that has the microphone, or the recording with someone yelling about a lot of stuff that you probably cant even understand, or it might be the vendor with the horrible pictures of people that are sick, with all kinds of herbs out in the open.

Herbal medicine in Mexico goes all the way back to the Aztecs and there are hundreds of different herbs that they use for different purposes. Some of these plants are not even native to Mexico but have been adapted over the centuries and brought by other countries. Of course, many of the old medicinal traditions are dying, but there are still over 600 different herbs used for curing illness, and you can find many of these in the Mercado. Most of these herbal remedies are effective, just be sure that you buy the real herbs and not the jarred concoctions (these tend to not work).

Mexican herbal medicine

If you ever decide to buy any of these herbal remedies be sure to only use recommendations from people that really know what they do. Most of the people that know how they work will be “curanderas” and natives. You will know who really knows by the way they dress (the more native, the truer the curandera) and because they will be able to answer your questions without reading, or thinking, these herbal medicine experts really know their stuff. There are even courses, and degrees in Mexican herbal medicines. So, be sure to ask the right questions. The following list is a compilation of some of the better known Mexican herbs and what they can do:

 

• Altea: (plantago, or plantain) This root is cooked into rice and is known to cure dysentery
• Añil (indigo): This Mexican herb is a leaf and is placed on children’s foreheads to relieve headaches
• Aguacate: this is your typical Avocado, but we are talking about the pit here. The pit is grated and then about 8 grams is placed in a glass of water and left overnight. The next day you can sweeten it with a little sugar. This is a natural remedy for intestinal worms. (intestinal worms are common in Mexico and should be treated every three to six months)
• Borraja (borage): This herbal remedy works great for coughs, or bronchitis which is common in Mexico because of the altitudes and the daily climatic changes. Boil the flowers and leaves and drink as a tea. Doesn’t taste bad either.
• Arnica (Golden aster) This is known to cure bruises. You boil the flowers and create a pulp and then apply to bruised area.
• Encino: (oak) The bark is boiled into a tea and used to get rid of diarrhea
• Gordolobo (cudweed): This tea is very effective for sore throats and coughs
• Maguey: Helps bruises, pains, supposedly good for high blood pressure. The juice is squeezed out and boiled then sweetened. Most people from the small villages drink this on a daily basis.
• Naranjo agrio (sour orange leaves): this tea is used to calm nerves, for heart palpitations
• Romero (rosemary): The tea from this herb is used to improve digestion
• Tejocote (hawthorn): This is a tea that is used to flush out the kidneys
• Zacate limon (lemon grass) This tea is used to prevent flatulence and soothe the intestines.
• Ajo –Mexican use garlic juice for several insect bites. It is known to be good for scorpion stings or spider bites. It is also used to control high blood pressure.

 

Although you might not be brave enough to buy some of the herbs from the stalls, they do work and its important to remember that Mexican people are very friendly and try to be very helpful, so if you are in one of the small villages and interact to some degree with the locals, it is highly likely that you will be offered one of these teas. When you know what they are, you will be less likely to say “no”. These people take their hospitality seriously and when you say no, you offend them. Most teas are beneficial and will make you feel much better. Think about this: the average lifespan of a rural “campesino” from a village is between 90 to 100 years, and his city counterpart lives to be 60 to 65. So, there must be something beneficial to the way people in rural villages eat and the herbs they use for medicinal purposes.

I can not tell you the number of times my stomach has been queasy and when my Mexican native friends go out and find their herbs, barks or tree leaves, I drink the tea and feel much better in a matter of a couple of hours.

Back Packing Through Mexico’s Lower Peninsula

Mexico is the land of “mañana” or tomorrow, and because of the laid back way of life, is a great destination for backpackers. The country has a pretty nice transportation system in place, since there aren’t a lot of people with cars. By nice, I mean an urban bus runs by about every 5 to 10 minutes, which will take you to about any point in the city or town you need to go to. Urban buses tend to be old school buses, but they get you to where you need to go for about .50 cents a trip.

When traveling city to city then you will want to take a travel bus which you can get at the larger city bus station, you can ask anyone where it is, and they will be able to tell you.

Where to Go in the Country?

You can head for the beach on the pacific coast, or head to the Mexican Riviera, and go through the Mexican Mayan ruins on your way through. You may want to head into Yucatan, and enjoy some diving, but you don’t really want to stay too long here, as it does get a bit touristy and commercial, and there are lots of other things to see around.

If you stay in the Yucatan area, you will want to see Tulum, a Mayan temple that sits on the edge of a cliff overlooking the pacific. This is really a great area to watch a wonderful Caribbean sunset, and get to really enjoy it away from all the people and the traffic.

You won’t want to miss the Mayan temple of Chichen Itza either. These spots are about a days travel out of Cancun, and the best and cheapest way to get there is to hop on a bus. When you are ready to leave Yucatan, you will want to hit San Cristobal de las Casas on your way out. This city is in the state of Chiapas and high in the mountains. You’ll get a good glimpse of what indigenous life is like. You will probably also enjoy walking in the surrounding mountains and semi tropical areas. This is truly a great town to get the feel of the tropics, commune with nature, and see some beautiful sunrises and sunsets. This area is also known for its “cenotes” or crystal blue natural underground pools, formed by caves, the older ones are now above ground, and you can swim in these, some are said to have healing benefits to them.. These cenotes are the remains of pre glacier times.

Head over to Palenque for some more world historic ruins. Just outside of Palenque you can see the tops of the temples rising just above the jungle top, and you can hear the howler monkeys and the parrots letting you know of their existence.

Next hop a bus to Oaxaca, it will take all night to get there, but well worth the trip. While you are there try some of the dishes that are native to the area. There are many different specialties in Oaxaca and they are all good. Among the most famous is their Mole Poblano, their crickets in mole, and their tortillas. You will want to visit the monastery and the Santo Domingo church and wonder at the arts and crafts, and the local architecture.

Your last stop before heading home could be Mexico City, the largest city in the country. There are close to 8 million people here, and because it is the nations capital there are many things to do and see. You can either get around by bus, metro or Taxi. Don’t carry lots of cash, jewelry or valuables, and don’t hire a tour guide off of the street.

This city is really known for its nightlife, so you will probably want to taste that, but you will also want to see sites like Xochimilco (barges on the lake decorated in flowers and bright colors), the Museum of archeology, which is world renown, and maybe a few other museums like that of modern art, or Bellas Artes which is located in the area.

Michoacan the Land of Enchantment!

 

If you are ever found backpacking through central Mexico then you can not miss a visit to the state of Michoacan. It is one of the smallest, yet most beautifull states in the country and unfortunately one of the poorest.

 

Michoacan is a very small state near Mexico City which is bordered on one side by the ocean and on the other by the Sierra Madre a mountainous region in Mexico. The climate is about 20 degrees Celsius all year round. This state is best known for its beautiful scenery and its excellent and varied dishes.

 

Morelia Michoacan is possibly the most beautiful of all Mexican cities. The city was founded and designed by the Spanish conquerors in about the XVI century and is fashioned after cities of the era in Spain. It was soon to be the city the Spanish could only dream of building.

 

Other beautiful areas that must be visited in Michoacan are Patzcuaro and Santa Clara del Cobre, these are called the magical towns. These are truly magical and a good way to view the true native culture. Once there and having enjoyed these magical towns you wont want to miss the butterfly refuge. There are tour buses that can take you to the refuge and these are not very expensive. Most cost somewhere between $20 and $30. This is an all day trip but well worth seeing. This area of the forest is where millions of monarch butterflies migrate from Canada to reproduce. It is truly amazing to see them hanging in thousands upon thousands from every tree branch available.